You have probably heard about the recent ban on trekking without a guide in Nepal. There has been a lot of confusion around this very controversial rule and not everything is clear. Check out this blog post if you want to:
- Gain a better understanding of the new requirement for a mandatory trekking guide in Nepal.
- Find out if the new rule applies to all routes in Nepal, or if you can still trek without a guide somewhere in Nepal.
- Read the latest trekking reports from the trails to see if the new rule came actually into force.
Because new rules not always work very well… Especially in Nepal.
What's in this blog post?
I. ANNOUNCEMENT MARCH 2023: Ban on trekking in Nepal without a guide
In March, the Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) announced that foreigners, whether solo or in a group, will no longer be allowed to trek in Nepal without a guide. From April 1, all hikers (and also cyclists) must be accompanied by a licensed guide.
As explained, the decision was made for two reasons. First of all, due to increasing safety concerns to prevent altitude sickness and getting lost, which are the main risks when trekking in Nepal. In addition, mandatory trekking guides would create more jobs in the tourism sector, and thus more income for the country.
1.1. Does the rule apply to all routes? Can you trek somewhere in Nepal without a guide?
The ban on trekking without a guide in Nepal applies to most of the Himalayan trekking routes, including the Everest and Annapurna regions. At least that’s the official narrative; later, we’ll check how it works in practice. Currently, for most routes, you need to obtain a TIMS Card, and to get one, you are required to hire a licensed guide. In short, all of the following most popular treks in Nepal require a guide now:
- Everest Base Camp Trek*
- Gokyo Trek*
- Three Passes Trek*
- Annapurna Circuit Trek
- Poon Hill-ABC Trek
- Mardi Himal Trek
- Langtang Trek
Shorter treks in the Kathmandu or Pokhara Valley do not require permits and, of course, do not require hiring a guide.
The Manaslu and Upper Mustang regions have always been restricted areas. It has not been permitted to hike the Manaslu Circuit and Upper Mustang independently, which has been enforced for a long time. The recent ban on trekking independently in Nepal has not changed anything here; hiring a guide and obtaining more expensive permits have always been required in these two areas.
*Previously (from 2018 to 2023), a TIMS Card was not required for the Everest region, but this has also changed recently. The Everest Base Camp trek, as well as the Gokyo Lakes and Three Passes trek, now require a TIMS card, in addition to two permits: the Sagarmatha National Park permit and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural permit.
Here is the official press release and the full list of trekking regions and routes falling under a new rule: Nepal Tourism Board Update
1.2. Mixed reactions on the new rule in Nepal
Trekking agencies are obviously very happy with the new rule of prohibiting foreigners from trekking without a guide in Nepal. They are the main beneficiaries as under the new rule, hikers will have to hire a guide through one of the government approved trekking agencies registered with Taan (Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal).
However, apart from the trekking agencies, most business owners in the tourism sector in Nepal seem to oppose this rule and fear that fewer tourists will visit Nepal. Similarly, many mountain experts doubt whether such a hasty decision was necessary or whether it would bring anything good to the country’s economy.
II. UPDATE SEPT 2023: Has the ban on trekking in Nepal without a guide come into force?
As of now (September 2023), the new ban on trekking in Nepal without a guide has not been implemented. Moreover, there is no indication that this will happen in the near future. So far, the new rule has only caused quite a stir.
According to various trekking reports, hikers who entered the Annapurna and Everest regions without a guide after April 1 were neither questioned nor stopped for this reason.
The guesthouses’ owners continued to welcome solo trekkers with a smile. What’s more, some of them plan to start a petition to change this rule.
2.1. The latest trekking reports from the Annapurna Circuit
Here are some reports from trekkers shared online – from the Annapurna Circuit Trek group, which is by the way an amazing source of reliable information, on Facebook:
“I have just crossed the checkpoint at Dharapani on ACT a few hours ago and no one cared that I was going all alone with no guide and no porter. Getting ACAP also no problem. On the contrary, I met some trekkers who are unsatisfied with their guide as they want to follow the roads rather than the more interesting trekking trails where available.” – 19 September 2023
“I’m on day 3 on the circuit (I started in Besisahar) and today I had my first checkpoints. Like a lot of people said (…) ACAP is enough and they do not ask anything about having a guide. There are quite a lot of other hikers too (after Jagat) who are hiking solo without a guide! And it’s easy to find someone to hike with on the trail!”- 12 September 2023
“Me and my friend just finished AC a few days ago. We went solo without a guide, and no problem.” – 1 September 2023
“The law doesn’t exist, it’s created by the trekking companies. I spoke with the official in the tourist centre in Kathmandu and he told me I can go without guide. I’m in Tatopani (day 12 for me) now and everything went pretty good so far.” – 1 September 2023
“For everyone considering doing the trek without a guide and wondering if the solo-ban is already enforced: we’re currently 4 days into the trek (as of June 14th, made it to Chame today) and came across a total of three checkpoints (Tal, Dharaphani, Kota), all of which did not care about us not having a guide and just entered our names into their lists normally.” – 14 June 2023
“ACAP obtained in Kathmandu from NTB. Gave no indication of needing a guide. Trek starts in 2 days.” – 17 April 2023
“We just received our ACAP permit in the Katmandu office and the officer said we don’t need a TIMS permit and can trek without a guide. If we get stopped we have his number to call him.” – 15 April 2023
“Got my ACA permit in the ACA tourist center in Pokhara. Zero mention of TIMS or needing a guide/agency. The lady who granted my pass told me: the new law has not been implemented yet and if you are questioned by any authority as to why you lack a guide they would be obligated to provide you with one but she didn’t seem phased one bit. She said it was basically up to me if I wanted a guide. I showed my pass to the police on the way to Jomsom, no questions asked, no drama.” – 10 April 2023
You can read about my independent trekking experience in Nepal here:
- “ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT TREK – DAY BY DAY ITINERARY“
- “ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT – HOW IS THE EXPERIENCE“
- “ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT – PRACTICAL GUIDE TO PLAN YOUR TREK“
- “ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TREK ITINERARY WITHOUT A GUIDE”
- “ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT vs. ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TREK COMPARISON – WHICH TREK TO CHOOSE?”
- “EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK – DAY BY DAY ITINERARY“
- “EVEREST BASE CAMP OR ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT – WHICH TREK TO CHOOSE?“
2.2. The opposite effect of the ban on trekking without a guide in Nepal
The new rule prohibiting solo trekking in Nepal has caused not only a lot of confusion, but also the opposite effect – lower income from tourism in Nepal. Many people cancelled their trekking plans after the announcement. Some hikers mentioned that the legendary Annapurna Circuit route has been quite empty during the usually very busy spring season. Many people will not go to Nepal anytime soon due to the unpredictability of the situation.
In addition, overall revenue from trekking permits has decreased. Prior to the announcement, two permits (ACAP and TIMS) were required to enter the Annapurna region. As an independent trekker it cost you NPR 5000. Currently, solo hikers only pay NPR 3000 for a single permit (ACAP) as a TIMS card can only be obtained when trekking with a guide.
So not only are fewer people going to Nepal now, but those who do are spending less money on permits. Well done Nepal Tourism Board!
III. SUBJECTIVE: Ban on trekking in Nepal without a guide: 5 reasons why it makes no sense
Everything I have written so far is objective and based on both facts and other people’s accounts. The purpose of this article is to explain the current situation so that you can make better decisions about your trip to Nepal.
The rest is subjective. This is my point of view with which you may or may not agree. Here are five reasons why I think the new rule of mandatory trekking guides in Nepal makes no sense and is harmful for the country that…
...I love and care so much.
1. Such a short notice for such a drastic change is unacceptable
Introducing a new rule in such a short time is disrespectful for people who have already planned their treks in Nepal. It is unthinkable to announce such a drastic change only three weeks before its implementation. A press release was issued on March 9, and the regulation was due to come into force on April 1. What about people who have booked flights and planned their dream solo Himalayan adventures or simply cannot afford a guide?
2. It has damaged image of a great tourist destination
Whether the rule is implemented or not, it damages Nepal’s image as a great tourist destination. How to plan a holiday in a country where regulations change so quickly?
3. Ban on trekking without a guide in Nepal only applies to foreign trekkers, not Nepali citizens
The ban on trekking in Nepal without a guide applies only to foreign travellers and does not apply to Nepalese trekkers. If the main goal is to improve the safety of hikers, then I’m sorry, but it doesn’t make much sense to me. When it comes to mountain experience and equipment, most Nepalis are less prepared than foreigners. I’ve seen it with my own eyes so many times. So maybe it’s not so much about safety…?
4. Trekking in Nepal is not so dangerous at all
If you have mountain experience and common sense, trekking in the Himalayas is no more adventurous than hiking any mountains. And if you don’t have it, you just shouldn’t go to Nepal in the first place. Of course, like any sporting activity, there are casualties and risks of injury, but hey, it’s part of the game and hiking is not a game of chess.
So how dangerous is trekking in Nepal?
As reported by The Guardian, the annual number of trekkers fatalities reported by the NTB ranges between 10 and 15. However, the figures may be lower. According to the Missing Trekker – the website that tracks missing and deceased hikers, the total death toll in the past six years (2016-2022) is 18. Three tourists who died along the route were accompanied by a guide…
To have a reference point:
- 19 people lost their lives in one year (2022) in the Polish mountains (the highest mountain is 2499 m);
- In Italy, 105 cyclists died on the road in the first eight months of 2022.
A real life example how dangerous trekking in nepal is... 😉
Of course I am not saying there are no potential hazards when trekking in Nepal, especially without the guide, as there are. Read about the main risks and how to avoid them here:
5. Ban on trekking in Nepal without a guide reduces tourism revenue
Banning solo trekking in Nepal, instead of generating more revenue from the tourism sector, will reduce profits from trekking. Those who always planned to have a guide will do so. Whereas adventurers looking for a sense of freedom and wild nature will not go to Nepal. Also, backpackers will not return to Nepal, because they will not be able to afford to pay for a guide.
I hope my blog post was useful, and if you were considering coming to Nepal, it helped you make the right decision. With or without a guide, I’m sure you’ll love trekking in Nepal because you’re coming, right?
I will post more updates if the situation changes. Hopefully the new rule will be revoked, so stay tuned!
Thank you so much
Thank YOU for reading!
Thank you. I have been trying to find out whether the rule was actually being implemented, and whether it ever applied to Everest region! Hoping to be there in the Autumn ( without a guide)
Hi Meg, I’m so happy you’ve found it useful and… happy trekking (without a guide) 🙂 !
Thank you for your information about Nepal.
I am a traveller however as a tourist guide see the benefits of trekking with a guide it will eventually be fazed into the system to the benefits of everyone trekkers abd guides.
Hi, thank you for this blog. I have gone solo trekking in nepal 4 times over the last 40 years… the recent news saddened me as I always loved the experience, people and the place. I was planning another trip next year… but had started to look elsewhere following the “ban”…. you have given me hope thank you. 😊
Hi Nick, we can’t lose hope and we have to go back to Nepal for its authentic experiences, amazing mountains and beautiful people <3 I'm glad I could help
"over the last 40 years" - I always envy those who have seen Nepal unspoilt by tourism, but I also know that I will return to Nepal for the next decades, and I will also experience the upcoming changes...
thank you for the info and recent uodate. Due to fly out in a cople weeks to bike annapurna curcuit and was dismayed when I read about the requirement for a guide as I prefer solo for my rides. This has reassured me that I dont need to change my plans. Thanks.
Il y a 35 ans que je viens au Népal pour trekker. Oui c’est pour être libre de m’arrêter dans un lodge plusieurs jours si la didi est sympa et si le dal bhat est bon. Sauf piur le manaslu ou un guide est obligatoire et le haut dolpo car il ny à pas de lodges. Il n’est pas plus dangereux ( au contraire) de trekker au nepal qu’en France. Au nepal la montagne est habitée. Aucun risque.
Si je dois prendre un guide, cest sur que l’année l’année prochaine je ne viendrai pas
Salut Piron – and that’s where my French ends 😉 Thank you for your comment. There are so many people like you, and that’s what I am afraid of – lots of people will not return to Nepal. Let’s hope that the rule will be revoked soon.
Also the first villages from besisahar to let’s say bahundanda or even further won’t see a tourist with a guide sleeping there…
Hi Philipp, that’s so true. There will be many villages and even teahouses with no tourists at all. People trekking with a guide always stay in the same teahouses and follow the same route. No more business for smaller places in less popular among travel agencies villages 🙁
Many thanks for the write up here and on trip advisor..am doing the circuit in a fortnight!
Hi Prasad, thank YOU for reading and… I’m so jealous you’re going for this amazing trek 😉 Enjoy every moment of it! I’m sure there will be no issues.
Actually trekking agents allora oppose in gran parte the new rules. They have more burocratic hassels and the state controls better tax evation.
The main supporter are trekking guides, porters for the news rules, they profit most.
That’s interesting that trekking agencies oppose it as well. Thank you for sharing! Ah, tax evasion… It’s a definitely good for guides and porters (at least) but unfortunately as a whole it is not a good rule for the country.
I made some estimates about the financial effect of the new rule (apparently NTB has done none) and as independents will be sharing guides it turns out that if just 5% of independents cancel their trip to Nepal the economy as a whole will start to suffer. If 30% cancel (47000 independents per year by latest stats) Nepal loses about $14M per annum. If this rule is eventually actually enforced, that is.
Hi Petrus, thank you for sharing! That’s so interesting and so sad at the same time. Yes, apparently ” In 2019, 300,000 trekkers flew to Nepal to explore the country. Of these, 46,000 were independent or solo trekkers.” Spending money on a guide is one thing, but how about all people working in transportation, shops and hotels in Kathmandu or Pokhara, lodges on the trails… They will not get their usual income from people who cancelled their treks.
Just returned from 5 months solo trekking in Nepal (autumn 2022 and spring 2023, with a break in India over the winter). First handed seen on numerous occasions that trekkers with a guide, especially those who team up in groups, very often are evacuated due to altitude sickness caused by pushy schedules that doesn’t suit everyone. No solo trekkers has been in trouble, as they have the flexibility to stay put for a day or go down a bit and try again. No wonder why the insurance is so expensive, people are being pushed up, make it or break it.
Hi Hanne, thank you for sharing your experience. 5 months solo trekking in Nepal – it seems a dream to me <3 So happy for you, it must have been truly amazing to be able to spend so much time in the mountains. I can't agree with you more. Most people who trek in the groups tend to have very tight schedule and no flexibility. They are not able to listen to their own body. In addition, agencies very often promise to "get to the top" very quickly in order to meet the needs of clients who have little time, and of course make money. This new rule is nonsense.
I am walking across Spain at the moment and have met many younger people who planned to go trekking in Nepal but, as they say, “for the cost of a guide in Nepal I can meet all my costs in Spain”. They are disappointed not to afford to go to Nepal. My wife and I have been 26 times to Nepal but not again until this stupid rule is revoked.
Hi Howard, thank you for sharing your experience! Wow, 26 times in Nepal! You have all my respect. You can’t imagine how much I would love to hear your and your wife’s stories over a cup of tea somewhere on the Himalayan trail. As you rightly said, “that stupid rule” will backfire. It hits the wrong target. People like you and me will not return while young people will not have a chance to discover how beautiful trekking in Nepal is… Thankfully it does not seem to be implemented and hopefully it will be revoked soon.
I had been planning a trip to the Himalayas for several months. Mainly, finances played an important role here. It was difficult for me to get more 500$ for a guide, but somehow I managed. I flew to Nepal, found an agency that sent me a guide. Unfortunately, the weather on the route to ABC was terrible and I found out, that my guide had never been in the mountains when it was raining. All he knew, was the route, but he didn’t know much about safety. He didn’t even had a raincoat. I’ve decided I don’t want to risk mine and his life and we’re going back. The agency had a problem with returning the money. A lot of stress, a lot of misunderstandings. So Lucky that you’ve been so many times on the mountains♡
Pozdro z Pokhary!
Hi Sylwia, I’m so sorry to hear your story 🙁 And even more – thank you for sharing! High mountains + bad weather + no experience can be a deadly combo. I’m so glad you’ve got back as pushing over the limits is usually very bad idea. I hope that one day you will return to Nepal – with a better guide (or solo! :)), in beautiful weather.
A Pokhary Ci bardzo zazdroszczę <3
Hey thanks so much for this update. As usual with such a hasty new rule implemented in a country with so little control it was always gonna be a bit of a mess to enforce.
Information on this topic is hard to find. I’ll be headed back to Nepal for my 3rd time this oct/nov season having never required a guide on my previous two trips. I love the solitude the mountains give you when there. I don’t want that ruined by some ‘guide’ who’s probably never been to the mountains before.
Am hopefully gonna do the 3 passes again…
Hi Paddy, thank you for looking into my blog and such a nice feedback. Oh, I totally get what you mean – I love trekking in Nepal because of the freedom you get. I wish you an awesome adventure this autumn – I hope to go back again as well, so maybe see you somewhere on the trail!
Hi everyone!
I’m from Spain, we are going to Nepal this fall (Oct/Nov) to do the Annapurna trek.
I’m going with my boyfriend, he has already done it alone three years ago and we would like to do it in the same way on this occasion. Do you know if the measure is really being implemented? If I am federated in Mountain, is it also mandatory to go with a guide?
Thank you so much,
Patricia
Hi Patricia!
The new rule has not been implemented. Many people still go trekking without a guide in Nepal – please read this blog post for more details.
Hi Beti,
Thank you very much and sorry for the question, obviously I’ve read the whole post before asking, but since the last updates were from April I wanted to be sure because the new rule is something that causes me a lot of concern.
I hope we can do the trek solo.
Thank you,
Patricia.
Hey Patricia!
That’s great – thank you for reading 🙂 I was a little bit confused by your question, but now all is clear. As of today May 28 – the situation has not changed since I wrote the article. Guides are officially required in Nepal but many people go without and do not encounter any issues. I hope that this confusing rule will be soon revoked. Anyway, if something changes, I will post updates on my blog and you should plan/prepare for your Annapurna adventure in the meantime 🙂
Hi Beti, great blog very useful, thanks.
I’m arriving July 31 for a month (been wanting to go my whole life).
So you’re saying that only Annapurna region has the mandatory guide officially enforced, and even there nobody’s enforcing it?
To be honest I was hoping to get to Manaslu /Tsum valley solo. Is that impossible?
Thanks! Cathal
Hi Cathal!
That’s right. The new rule has not been enforced. As per many recent trekkers reports it’s still possible to hike solo in Annapurna region.
I have not done Manaslu myself but from what I know it is a restricted area of Nepal since it’s on the border with Tibet thus the guide is required. It’s not permitted to hike the Manaslu Circuit Trek independently. The guide has been always required for Manaslu trek – the new rule has not changed anything here. If you want to go without the guide, you should head to Annapurna, Everest or Langtang region. But you need to be extra careful – July/August is a monsoon season in Nepal. Said that, I’m so happy you finally make your big dream come true! That’s the most important. Enjoy every moment of it.
I’ve been trekking in Nepal five times. My concern with the new rules are that the tea house owners will suffer a financial loss. The tea house owners depend on all clients solo trekkers, small group trekkers, and organized commercial groupes . By expecting everyone to have a “licensed guide” will turn off many visitors to Nepal to the detriment of the tourist economy.
I am Canadian. I have backpacked solo in the Canadian Rocky Mountains all my life and I can assure you that it is much more dangerous than anything I’ve experienced in Nepal. Using safety is a lame excuse. The trails in Nepal are well defined and most solo trekkers don’t vary from them.
I was planning my sixth trip to Nepal in the autumn of 2023. I was planning on Manaslu. I will not be going . The costs with the new rules have become prohibitive.
Kenneth Edgar Macdonald
Elnora , Alberta
Canada
Hi Kenneth!
Thank you for your sharing your thoughts. I exactly know what you mean as I feel exactly the same about this nonsense rule. It’s so harmful to all the small business owners and, I guess, you have more mountain experience than most of the guides in Nepal. However, as regards Manaslu trek, I believe, similarly to Upper Mustang the guide has been always required since it’s a restricted area in Nepal on the borders with Tibet.
Beti
Ps. I really hope you will come back one day in Nepal. People of Nepal still need individual trekkers…
Thanks for the article! I am planning to start the Annapurna Circuit in the next couple of days on my own.
Are there any updates regarding the new law?
Should I just go to the tourist office in Kathmandu and ask for the permit?
I am a little concerned that they tell me it is not allowed anymore…or even worse: get stopped on the way and have to turn around:/
Hi Jakob! No updates, it’s still only on the paper. Hundreds of people trek without a guide the Annapurna Circuit. So, please do not worry. Get the ACAP permit and hit the trail. Nobody will stop you, and you will have time of your life! Happy trekking!
True. I have had some experience. To say I have more experience than Nepalese guides is not necessarily the case. I am an average person with no special talents. A special person is the Sherpa man who carried another man from everests death zone. I have always admired the Sherpas and porters I have met on the trails. Their fitness and strenghth is unbelievable .
We can’t compare the real heroes – Sherpas climbing 8,000 m peaks to most of the trekking guides. While some of trekking guides are definitely reliable, experienced and suited for their jobs, unfortunately I hear many stories from trekkers that some of them are totally unprepared / unexperienced and unequipped.
Hi Beti, thanks for this blogpost! Very useful information. You quote a couple of experiences of April that state it’s still possible to hike without a guide. Do you know if that’s still up to date and if so; can you share the sources you use?:) thanks! Rogier
Hi Rogier, thank you for reading my blog. Nothing has changed since April. As mentioned in the blog post, trekking reports I quoted were shared online – on the ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT TREK Facebook group. Get access to this group to get more information please.
Hi!
Which facebook group have you mentioned?
Cześć:) Annapurna Circuit Trek
Hi Beti,
I can not find your blog about Gokyo lakes anymore (I think that you posted it here in the past)?
Hi Lucija, it was not me 🙂
Unfortunately I have never posted anything about the Gokyo Lakes. Actually no, that’s not true, I mentioned in my post about the EBC trek that I was planning to go there, but due to a terrible toothache I had to turn back from the EBC. I really hope to see the lakes. Maybe this year, if not next year.
Sorry for not being helpful and… thank you for reading my blog. It makes me so happy <3
Hi Beti,
Thanks for great information shared. I am coming for the 3 Everest 3 passes in September and planning to go solo, without guide (do have experience…). You wrote that by obtaining the 2 requires permits (Sagarmatha National Park and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural) you won’t need the TIMS card, and therefore, not mandatory to hire guide services, correct?
we can, however, still obtain the TIMS card for additional security, no?
Thanks,
Ricardo
Hi Ricardo!
First of all, thank you for reading my blog. I’m happy you find it useful. Actually, your comment made me double check something and update the article, so thanks for your comment as well. There has been change regarding EBC region and TIMS card is also required now. That’s the official part.
What does it mean in practice? You have two options. You can obtain the TIMS card, but that’s only possible if you hire a guide, you won’t get it without. Or you can hit the trail without a guide and get the two permits, which are still required on your way to Namche.
As per various accounts, people have been trekking without a guide in the spring season in both Annapurna and Everest regions with no issues. I really doubt things will change in autumn. I hope it helps.
Happy hiking!
Beti
Thanks again for the info! I will share an update after I return in mid-October.
Ricardo
Hey Ricardo,
we are planning in starting EBC trek from Jiri in zwo days. Do you have any October updates? Thank you so much !!!!
Dear Beti!
I have been trekking in Nepal sine 1981 25 times without a guide/trekker and never ever got any problems at all!! (I live and come from very “flat” Denmark!!)
I go again in oct. 2023 and hope to do 3 passes with some friends but no guide/porter.
Thanks for all your information and I agree in all your subjektive points! And after reading, I now think I will have a fantastic trek again in Solu Khumbu like many times before!
Thanks again.
Karsten Pose.
Namaste Karsten! 25 times!!! I am very jealous, or rather I feel that I still have some trekking to do 😉 Joking aside, I am very happy that such an experienced fellow Nepal lover appreciated my little writing. I’m sure you’ll love it and please let me know, if you think something changed. Please enjoy some momos and masala tea for me and say hello to the most amazing mountains & people <3
Hi Beti and all,
I spent August in Annapurna park, hiked a remote trail into one of the valleys. Was issued a pass without any questions about guides at the office in Pokhara.
I encountered police on the way out at Ghorepani (not the way in, I entered at Tadapani), but they didn’t comment on the fact that I had no guide. If I had encountered police on the way in, I don’t know whether it would have been a problem (deliberately avoided them).
Best, Cathal
Was hoping to the Poon Hill Ghorepani in April. I hope i can just get Pass in Office in Pokhara or Kathmandu and require a TIMS guide.
I’m sure you will be fine. If you prefer to trek independently, before hitting the trail just get ACAP permit. You can still trek solo!
and also hey to everybody else 🙂
are there and fresh updates from the everest region? starting the day after tomorrow. thank you .
PS Beti thanks for your wonderful blog
Thank you Paula! As far as I know from various groups & forums, there are no recent updates. The road is clear 🙂 you can trek in both: Annapurna & Everest region without a guide and without any issues. Enjoy your adventure!
how was it?!
hey all of you 🙂
are there maybe any new updates from the ABC trek ? thanks a lot
Hey Beti,
Can’t thank you enough for this. I was reconsidering my plan to go for the ABC trek this Thanksgiving week since I heard about the ban. Your Blog was extremely helpful, can’t thank you enough.
Hi Madhav, so happy to hear that 🙂 Please don’t change your plans and enjoy beautiful Himalayas!
Hey beti….planning to start out tomorrow for ABC trek solo…which permits do I need and i hope I can do it without a guide
Hi Akash, you only need ACAP permit and of course you CAN do it without guide! Plenty of trekkers do it this way with no issues. All the best and enjoy this beautiful journey!
Hi Beti, can’t thank you enough for this blog. I am planning to start for Mardi Himal and I was wondering whether the situation still persists in 2024. Do I require the TIMS?
Hi Arkdeep, my pleasure 🙂 As of now you can go without TIMS. I really believe this rule will never be enforced in practice. Good luck with your adventure!
Hi Beti,
Thanks so much for posting all this information. It’s answered all my questions in regards to guide and permit requirements.
Cheers,
Ken Hiebert
Hi Ken,
Thank you so much for your comment. I have tons of doubts about quitting writing as it takes so much time and effort but feedbacks like yours make me always believe it all makes some sense, so I continue writing.
Enjoy your trekking adventure!
Beti
Hey Beti 🙂 thank you for all these details on your blog. I used to blog as well about other treks and I find your style very informative! My partner and I are soon heading on the ACT too and with experience in trekking plan to go without a guide. Im happy to update you and future readers how it went. I do a short Poohill prep hike as well before, and see how it is without a guide.
What place would you recommend in Pokhara to stay? Is it also possible to get Diamox in Pokhara, since my partner wants to use it as safety precaution (most pharmacies in Kath. I approached yet don’t have it).
Hi Earlybird,
Thank you so much for such a nice comment. Good feedback from a fellow blogger counts even more, doesn’t it? 🙂 Please give us some feedback in the comments after your trek as it will encourage others to trek independently!
Regarding Diamox I don’t know honestly. I would expect to find it in most of the pharmacies in both Kathmandu & Pokhara. I only bought it once in 2019 (and never actually used it) and it was not an issue to find it. I’m sorry but not sure what has changed / how to help you.
As for Pokhara… I wrote the entire article – even a few about this amazing city, but never got chance to publish them. Maybe one day!
This unpublished fragment should help you to find the right accommodation though, at least I hope:
South Lakeside is closer to the bus station, which might be more convenient for a short stay. Better hotels, more elegant restaurants (keep in mind you are not in Paris but in Pokhara, so it is never too fancy) and more exclusive shops are located here. From South Lakeside, in good weather, you may be able to admire the Himalayan panorama from the hotel’s balcony. When I first visited Pokhara I stayed in this part of Lakeside. Although the Himalayas were rather shy and hid behind the clouds during my entire stay, it was a very enjoyable time.
North Lakeside, offering more affordable hotels and simpler restaurants, is more suitable for the backpackers. Here, the atmosphere is even more relaxed, a bit hippy. There are plenty of vegetarian restaurants and cozy bars. Hotels are closer to nature – right by the lake, close to surrounding green hills and the trail leading to Sarangkot. On the flip side, many hotels are on the main road (Baidam Road), which can be busy. Check the exact location before booking if you are looking for peace and quiet. I lived in North Lakeside for almost 8 months at the beginning of the pandemic. This part of Pokhara will remain in my heart forever. This will always be my second home.💚
Those looking for peace and tranquility should consider staying in picturesque Sedi or Happy Village (by the way, what a lovely name). Situated respectively 15 and 30 minutes by walk from North Lakeside, they are definitely less busy, offering less restaurants and shops than Lakeside. If you decide to stay in one of the villages, you may consider renting a scooter or a bicycle to easily get to Lakeside whenever you want. However, walking is perfectly doable as well.
I lived for more than 6 months in Lake Vision Guesthouse and loved it. It was so quiet during the pandemic with no tourists, bars with music and cars. If you decide to stay there, say hello to Tulsi and his lovely family from Beti.
Good luck with your adventure!
Hi Beti and other readers,
we are back in Pokhara and everything went very well. We started trekking April 10th and met other hikers as well going without a guide. I talked also with many people (guides and locals) and the response were mostly positive.
Most of the guides I engaged and talked with were very friendly and open shared information about the trek, especially when they saw that we were well prepared (I used to guide hiking trips and have done lots of long hikes before). I had only one weird encounter with one guide, where I felt that he gave us wrong information. Beside that, all locals, tea house owners etc. were always very welcome and helpful. Until Muktinath, we had always a free room for eating dinner+breakfast there.
Going without a guide gives you the freedom to hike your own hike but you have the responsibility to prepare well and be smart with your descisions in terms how far to go every day! I wouldn’t recommend this trek for a first-time multi-day trip and especially if you go solo. Most guided groups we met were happy with their guides and that they can just focus and hiking and dont have to deal with choosing where to stay 🙂
In terms of gear: Temperatures in Manang were still around/above freezing at night and my partner only needed a sleeping bag after Mamang. I was fine without one. Micro-spikes were not needed Thorung La. We stayed in Thorung Pedi and met people coming down from High Camp due to AMS symptoms :(. If someone don’t know their body at high altitude, I wouldn’t recomment to sleep at High Camp.
After all, it’s a beautiful area, very well maintained trek, friendly people and the diversity is incredible. We finished the trek with the last night in Ghorepani and watching the sunrise from Deurali Pass on the way to Ghandruk rather going up to Poonhill. It takes 1 hours and have the sunrise for yourself 🙂
Hello, Thanks for these news, which don’t really surprise me a bit. Nepal has been on a dangerous slope for at least the last 10 years, counting on developping their economy by racketting the tourists. It was already the case in the cities (Katmandu, etc) where all temples and “historical sites” have stopped from being free. And now this ?
I was lucky to be able to do 2 big treks on my very own (a few years ago) : Annapurna tour and Sanctuary, and Everest Base Camp. I enjoyed the total freedom and the (somewhat) inexpensive trekking possibility. Though between my 2 visits to Katmandu, half of the tourist area had been bought and managed by the Chinese, doubling prices within a few years.
For sure, I will not be coming another time if this rule remains and is enforced. India, a few years back had implemented drastic and stupid anti-tourist laws, under the pretense of “controlling terrorism”, and they finally had to revert to the previous situation as every tourism professional was complaining and there was a drastic drop in international tourism. Hopefully, Nepal will come to its senses, but I’m afraid this comes as part of the negative chinese influence of wanting to control everyone and everything (on top of the supposed economic incentive.
Hi Eric! Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I also hope this rule will be reverted officially soon. As for now I am just glad that it is not implemented and people can still trek independently in Nepal!
Hi!
Thank you for the explanation, information and news.
We are going to Annapurna Region in end september. Do you know news about “Ban on trekking in Nepal without a guide”?
We are planning to do Annapurna Base Camp and Mardi Himal Trek.
Thank you so much,
Regards
Hi Ander! Actually there is no update. You still can hike in the Annapurna region without a guide. This rule is only on the paper, plenty of people still trek independently. So don’t worry too much and enjoy your adventure! I did both hikes – there are both splendid!
Hi beti
Thanks for great blog about abc trek. I don’t know how much i got exited for abc trek after reading your blog. But little worried about guides as I don’t want to get scamed and i believe I can do it alone. Any updates? Or should I hire one
Thanks and warm hugs for valuable informations
Hi Abhi, thank you for your message. I’m so happy you like my blog. If you want to go without a guide, you still can do it. Nothing changed. Plenty of people still hike independently in the Annapurna region. Hope it helps. Good luck with your adventure!
Hello Beti, thank you for sharing this information with us. I am leaving for Nepal next week and my plan was to do the ‘blue’ Annapurna Circuit (NATT) independently. Years ago, I did it in april with a guide and porter, which I found a rather disappointing experience, and we walked along the road from Muktinath and again from Marpa. So I am looking forward this time to take the nicer trails on the opposite site of the river. As I read the posts here, it seems I just need the ACAP from the Kathmandu tourist center office and that’s it? Do you have any idea about the chances Thorung La might be already blocked by snow by the end of november/first days of december please?
Hey Geert! First off, you’re such a lucky guy with an awesome plan! Yep, you just need an ACAP permit, and you’re all set to go.
About the snow at Thorung La, you probably know there’s really no way to get a solid answer on that. But I think it’s still a bit early for heavy snow, so fingers crossed it’ll be passable. If you can, try to give yourself a little extra time or a few extra days in your itinerary—just in case there’s snow, or you need a rest day. That’s the most important when you’re planning a solo hike in Nepal.
Thank you, Beti, yes, that’s true. I was just wondering because I often read the pass is usually blocked from half of december while on the three passes route in Solokumbu I often read no longer possible as from the end of november, but of course this no exact sciences matter. The idea is actually to climb again in the vicinity of Tatopani to the Khopra ridge along the northern path, which I haven’t taken before, towards Mohare Danda and then the two day forest traverse to Birithanti. Looking forward to it!
You never really know if you can pass a high pass until you get close. That’s the exciting part! 😉 I really hope the weather is good because your plan sounds amazing. I won’t lie—I’m a little jealous sitting here in my apartment in rainy Tokyo while I write this! Good luck, and thanks again for visiting my site and leaving your footprints!