Are you looking for a unique travel experience in Japan? Do you want to learn more about Japanese culture and Buddhist traditions? Or simply want to escape the hustle and bustle of the big city? Koyasan 2-day itinerary with an overnight stay in a Buddhist temple with over 1000 years of tradition might be exactly what you need. Read this blog post if you want to know more about a temple stay in one of the most sacred places in Japan. Let’s get started!
What's in this blog post?
WHY VISIT KOYASAN?
Overnight experience at a Buddhist temple in Japan
Mount Koya (Kōyasan) is probably the best place for the overnight temple stay experience in Japan. This unique experience, offered not only to pilgrims but also to ordinary tourists, gives an insight into the monks’ life and Buddhist rituals. There are more than 50 temples in Koyasan serving as temple lodgings (shokubo). What’s important, you can book may of them through online booking platforms, such as Booking.com or Agoda. This makes planning Koyasan 2-day itinerary much easier.
Koyasan is one of Japan's most sacred places
Koyasan is one of the most important and sacred sites in Japan. In the 9th century, a monk named Kukai chose the remote mountains of Koyasan as the site of his monastery and the home of a new religion, Shingon Buddhism, which he “brought” to Japan after studying in China. Kukai, known posthumously as Kobo Daishi, is one of Japan’s most worshipped religious figures to this day. In Koyasan, you’ll find beautiful temples, the Kobo Daishi Mausoleum and Japan’s largest and most spectacular cemetery – all immersed in beautiful nature.
Welcome to Koyasan -
one of Japan's most sacred sites!
GETTING TO KOYASAN
The closest major city
Osaka is the closest major city to Koyasan. Although it may seem complicated at first, as you have to take the train, cable car and bus to reach the temples in Koyasan, the journey from Osaka (Namba Station) to Koyasan is very convenient and takes 2 hours. Due to the constantly changing beautiful rural and mountain landscapes outside the window, I really enjoyed the journey. It is amazing that in just two hours you can escape from the dense concrete jungle of Osaka to the sacred green mountains of Koyasan.
crossing two different worlds in just two hours
How to get from Osaka to Koyasan?
Take the Nankai Koya line from Namba Station in Osaka to Koyasan. The fastest option is the Limited Express which takes 80 minutes to reach Koyasan. Alternatively, you can take the regular express train with a short transfer at Hashimoto Station (journey time approximately 105 minutes). Although I took a slower train, the journey it was very comfortable. Transfer in Hashimoto is very easy. You don’t even have to change the platform and the trains are coordinated on time. After all, this is Japan! 🙂
Transfer in Hashimoto is easier than you think
After reaching the final train stop, Gokurakubashi Station, take the cable car. This last part of the Koyasan journey takes only about 5 minutes.
Can I use the JR Pass to travel to Koyasan?
No, the Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass) cannot be used to access Koyasan. You need to take the Nankai Electric Railway, which is not covered by the JR Pass.
Getting from Osaka to Koyasan: how much does it cost?
A one-way ticket (train + cable car) from Osaka to Koyasan costs around JPY 1,400 (Regular Express) and around JPY 2,200 (Limited Express).
The Koyasan World Heritage Ticket
The Koyasan World Heritage Ticket (JPY 3,080) is a great way to save on a 2-day trip to Koayasan. It includes a round trip ticket from Osaka to Koyasan (Regular Express), unlimited bus travel within Koyasan town and discounted admission to Koyasan’s major attractions. Ticket is valid over two consecutive days. You can buy it at Nankai stations in Osaka: Namba, Shin-Imamiya and Tengachaya.
Even if you only travel from Namba to the main attraction of Koyasan, Okunoin, it will help you to save money as a one-way ticket costs over JPY 1,800 (JPY 1,390 for the train and cable car + JPY 420 for the bus from Koyasan to Okunoin). And if you plan a 2-day trip to Koyasan, you’ll save even more, like we did!
If you plan to travel to Koyasan by Limited Express train, just buy the more expensive version of the Koyasan World Heritage Ticket (3630 JPY).
Koyasan World Heritage Ticket Information
Otherwise, you can use your IC card (Pasmo/Suica) for Regular Express, cable car and buses within Mount Koya. As usual in Japan, you need to pay a special supplement fee when travelling with Limited Express.
WHAT TO DO IN KOYASAN?
Overnight stay in a Buddhist temple in Japan
Staying in a temple with a 1200-year history with the opportunity to participate in daily rituals of the monks makes Koyasan truly unique. In addition, an overnight at the temple means a stay in a traditional Japanese-style room with a tatami mat. Last but not least, you will have a chance to taste beautifully presented Buddhist meals, great for both body and mind.
Theoretically, you can see the highlights of Koyasan on a day trip from Osaka. However, a night at Koyasan Temple is the reason why most people choose to come here. More on what to expect and my honest review of my stay in the Ekoin Temple later in the article.
Enjoying Japanese dinner at the temple
Okunoin Cementary
Okunoin, the largest cemetery in Japan with over 200,000 tombstones along the 2-kilometre approach to the Kobo Daishi Mausoleum, is one of Japan’s most sacred sites.
Interestingly, it is believed that Kobo Daishi rests in eternal meditation. While waiting for the arrival of the Future Buddha, he provides relief to those who ask for salvation in the meantime. Therefore, many people have been buried here over the centuries in the hope of quick salvation thanks to the proximity to Kobo Daishi. This is why the cemetery is so huge and many pilgrims visit Koyasan every year.
Torodo Hall (Hall of Lamps) is the main hall of Okunoin with thousands of lanterns donated by the worshippers, lit perpetually. Kobo Daishi’s Mausoleum, the place of his eternal meditation, is located behind the hall. Beyond the Gobyobashi Bridge leading to Torodo Hall and Mausoleum, photography, eating and drinking are prohibited.
Especially at night, visiting the Okunoin Cemetery is an unforgettable experience. The atmosphere is mystical. The path is nicely lit and you can walk all the way to the mausoleum. The view of thousands of lanterns at night is especially impressive.
TIP #1 - OKUNOIN CEMENTARY
You can’t enter Torodo Hall inside at night and you also won’t see all the quirks of the cemetery, so I highly recommend visiting Okunoin twice. Once in the evening and once in the morning. Even if you stay in Koyasan only for one night, believe me it’s worth it.
TIP #2 - OKUNOIN WALKING TOUR
If visiting a cemetery at night seems a bit scary and you need some company, do not worry, there is a perfect solution for you. Sign up for the Okunoin night walking tour at the Ekoin Temple. Actually, we were supposed to join that tour, but unfortunately due to rain it was cancelled, so when the rain stopped, we explored the cemetery by ourselves and…
it wasn't that scary at all... 🙂
Important temples & sites in Koyasan
Danjo Garan Temple Complex
Danjo Garan Temple Complex is the second holiest site of Koyasan, which is the first place where Kobo-Daishi built a temple. According to legend Kukai, shortly before leaving China for Japan after studying Esoteric Buddhism, he threw his vajra – a tool used for rituals – towards the Japanese Archipelago to discover the best place to propagate Buddhism. Because the vajra fell on a pine tree (which still grows here), he built his temple in Koyasan.
Take time to explore Danjo Garan Temple Complex,
there are many gems hidden in the cedar forest
There are a total of 19 buildings in the complex. The most impressive Konpon-Daito Pagoda and Kon-Do Hall were destroyed by fires many times and were rebuilt in the 20th century. Both require an entrance fee of JPY 500 (20% off with The Koyasan World Heritage Ticket).
TIP #3 - DANJO GARAN TEMPLE COMPLEX
If you plan to enter only one of the buildings – I recommend the 45 metres high red Konpon-Daito Pagoda. It features a rare 3D mandala (mandalas are usually 2D paintings representing a spiritual journey/universe) with a central Cosmic Buddha statue surrounded by statues and paintings on the pillars, which is very unique.
Kongobuji Temple
The home of Shingon Buddhism brought to Japan by Kobo Daishi (with 4,000 temples worldwide now), with a magnificent rock garden (the largest in Japan) and beautiful paintings by famous artists on its impressive sliding doors – fusuma. I have no pictures as you are not allowed to take photos inside. The temple is also known for the room where one of the famous Japanese warriors – Toyotomi Hidetsugu was forced to commit suicide.
We didn’t know whether to go in or not as the entrance fee is quite high – JPY 1000 but we are glad we did. Kongobuji temple is really interesting and with The Koyasan World Heritage Ticket you have a 20% discount.
Daimon Gate
Daimon Gate, protected by two guardian gods at both side, has always served as the main entrance to Koyasan. This 25 metres high majestic gate was rebuilt in 1705.
Hiking Women Pilgrims Course
I wouldn’t be myself if I didn’t squeeze a little hike into Koyasan 2-day itinerary 🙂
Before 1872, women were banned from many sacred places in Japan, including Koyasan and Mount Fuji. Those most determined devotees who wanted to pay their respects to the Kobo-Daishi Mausoleum but could not get close, established the Women’s Pilgrimage Course which surrounded the sacred area. The 7km Women Pilgrims Course goes around Koyasan from Nyonindo Hall via Benten Peak, Daimon Gate and ends at the Okuno-in entrance.
If you don’t have much time and still want to enjoy the beautiful Koyasan forests, like we did, you can only walk part of the route. The 2km route from Nyonindo Hall via Benten Peak to Daimon Gate leads gently uphill through dense forest and several picturesque red torii gates and is very pleasant. The trail took us about an hour (with plenty of breaks for a forest bath).
KOYASAN 2-DAY ITINERARY
This Koyasan 2-day itinerary is in fact more of a 24-hour stay.
Day 1 in Koyasan
ARRIVAL TO KOYASAN
If you take the Limited Express at 2:00 PM from Namba, you will arrive at Ekoin Temple at 4:00 PM. Early arrival will allow you to attend a free meditation at 4:30 PM a the temple.
When we reached Koysan Station,
there was bit of fog 🙂
DINNER AT 5:30 PM
Buddhist meals served in the temple (shojin ryori) are tasty, beautifully presented and nourishing for both body and mind. It’s imposiible not to enjoy the atmosphere of traditional Japanese decor while having dinner delivered to your room by a monk.
EVENING
After dinner, head to the most atmospheric place in Koyasan – Okunoin, located in front of the Ekoin Temple. A night walk through the centuries-old cemetery, surrounded by tall cedars and countless tombstones, is an unforgettable experience. As already mentioned, you have two options: you can go alone or join a tour.
Ekoin Temple at night
Day 2 in Koyasan
MORNING
Wake up early to enjoy free activities at the temple – morning prayer at 7:00 AM, followed by a fire ritual at 7:30 AM. Breakfast will be served in your room just after at 8:00 AM. Like dinner, it is an amazing vegetarian feast.
After breakfast, head towards Okunoin. Although we enjoyed it, as the graveyard looked very different with the daylight, you do not have to cover the almost 2-kilometre distance on foot again. You can take the bus to the Okunoin-mae stop and walk about a kilometre through the newer part of the cemetery to impressive Torodo Hall, which you can visit inside now.
none of my photos captures the true beauty of Okunoin cementary
After visiting Okunoin, board the bus at Okunoin-mae stop and head towards Daimon Gate.
LUNCH
We stopped at a small restaurant called Tsukumo near the Daimon Gate. It had good reviews online and we liked its traditional feel. We sat at the low table on a tatami mat (there are normal tables too) and watched the monks enjoying their lunch break. They must have been fasting before. They got two main courses each and finished probably in two minutes! Our food was served quickly – vegetable rice pilaf – a restaurant specialty and udon soup with beef, both were tasty and cheap. If you want to eat where the locals go, this is definitely your place. Keep in mind that pilaf with beef takes over 35 minutes to prepare, so you might want to opt for a vegetable option, or a udon soup if you want to eat meat.
AFTERNOON
With a full belly and well rested make your way to Daimon Gate, the main entrance to Koyasan, protected by two impressive guardians.
TIP #4 - DAIMON GATE
If you plan to hike the Women Pilgrims Course, you can skip visiting Daimon Gate in the morning, as you will pass through it at the end of the hike.
Crossing this final torii gate situated in front of the Daimon Gate ends the 2-km hike
THE BEST COFFEE IN KOYASAN
Stop for coffee at Powerstone & Cafe Shinsei, situated on the main road between Daimon Gate and Danjo Garan Temple Complex. This lovely small coffee shop is serving very good coffee. Both caffe latte with soy milk and regular cappuccino were delicious. Drinking coffee at the outside table and watching time go by in a small town of Koyasan should be definitely on your “to do list”.
Sometimes a little break is more memorable than any sightseeing...
Especially if the Tanuki family is your companion:)
MOST IMPORTANT TEMPLES IN KOYASAN
After coffee, visit Danjo Garan, a spacious temple complex surrounded by tall cedars. Explore the main hall and the pagoda inside after paying an entrance fee or admire the majestic buildings from outside. I promise it will be beautiful either way.
After visiting Danjo Garan, head to Kongobuji Temple, the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism. Explore the temple’s rock garden and famous paintings on the sliding doors.
From Kongobuji Temple take a 5-minute bus ride to Nyonindo Hall built to cater to female visitors who were banned from entering Koyasan before 1872.
A PLEASANT HIKE TO FINISH YOUR DAY IN KOYASAN
A trail climbing up in front of the hall is the beginning of the Women Pilgrims Course. Initially, the path looks a bit scary, but don’t worry, only the first few metres are a bit steep. Overall, it’s a pleasant walk in the forest.
After about one hour, you will arrive to Daimon Gate. You can take here the bus to the Ekoin Temple or any other place where you left your luggage. After picking up your belongings take the bus towards the Koyasan Station to start a journey back to the civilization – Osaka or your next destination.
Koyasan at 4pm & Osaka at 7 pm... Why all good things must come to an end?
TIP #5 - LAST BUS IN KOYASAN
The last bus from Daimon Gate towards Okunoin, stopping in front of the Ekoin Temple departs around 3 PM. If, like us, you arrive at the bus stop later, you will need to walk or try to take a taxi. We chose to walk the main road to the Ekoin Temple (~25 min).
The last bus towards Koyasan Station departs much later, after 9 PM.
Walking down the main road of Koyasan guided by a big puffy cloud
TIP #6 - KOYASAN ITINERARY
If you are 100% sure you want to hike the Women Pilgrims Course, instead of visiting temples first in the morning, you can start your day with this hike. We left hiking for the end of the day as our main focus was the temples. We just did not know how long it would take to visit them. Besides, it was nice to relax in nature after sightseeing. Looking back, there is time for everything as you will start your day at the temple lodging early. So what’s you see first, is totally up to you.
ACCOMMODATION IN A BUDDHIST TEMPLE IN JAPAN: WHAT TO EXPECT + MY REVIEW
This part is very subjective as it is based on my previous experiences. Your stay at Ekoin Temple may look completely different.
Like it or not, I came to the Ekoin Temple with certain expectations. First, Koyasan was my second temple stay in Japan. Last October I visited Takayama where I stayed at the Temple Hotel Takayama Zenkoji and I loved it. Secondly, over the last 3 years I have had the opportunity to stay in many traditional guesthouses in remote parts of Japan. So my expectations were probably different from those of a first-time visitor to Japan. In general, maybe I wasn’t exactly thrilled with the experience, but I still think it’s very unique.
Welcome to Ekoin temple in Koyasan!
What I liked about the overnight stay at Ekoin Temple in Koyasan?
THE BEAUTIFUL INTERIORS OF EKOIN TEMPLE
I especially liked the long hall with spacious rooms with beautifully painted sliding doors leading from the reception to the room. The main temple where morning prayers are held is also beautiful. Besides, you have the chance to enter the holy parts, normally inaccessible to tourists in other temples.
The Japanese-style rooms are spacious and offer the possibility of sleeping on a traditional Japanese mattress (futon) placed on a tatami mat. We stayed in a simple room with a shared toilet, but there are also rooms with a private bathroom and even a luxury suite.
EARLY CHECK IN
Check-in at the Ekoin Temple is available from 1 PM, which is great. It allows you to enjoy the temple’s beautiful surroundings and your room longer. In Japan, check-in is usually from 4 PM and sometimes even later, so it’s very generous of the monks. Try to check in early or at least before 4 PM to participate in the free meditation.
FREE ACTIVITIES FOR TEMPLE GUESTS AVAILABY DAILY
- A 40-minute meditation session starts at 4:30 PM. Unfortunately we couldn’t check in before 5 PM and missed it.
- Morning prayers for Buddhist saints from 7 AM for about 25 minutes. Chanting monks is a very powerful and relaxing experience at the same time.
- Goma Ritual of consecrated fire begins at 7:30 AM and lasts about 30 minutes. This incredible experience is believed to be both spiritually and mentally cleansing.
The spectacular Fire Ritual, held at Bishamondo Shrine, said to be built by Kobo Daishi, is the main highlight of Ekoin temple stay in Koyasan.
A full video of the Goma Ritual we participated [CLICK HERE]
Even if your knowledge about Buddhism is limited, you should try to participate in these activities. This is what makes the temple lodging in Koyasan so unique.
BUDDHIST CUISINE (SHOJIN RYORI)
Even if you are not a big fan of veggies and tofu, you will probably enjoy a wonderful meals at the temple. The ingredients are carefully selected and cooked to perfection and the presentation of the food is like in the fine dining restaurant.
Dinner time!
Things I liked less about Koyasan temple stay
COMMERCIALISATION
The first thing I saw upon entering the temple gate was a food truck offering beef croquettes in the temple courtyard. The TV in the room and the possibility of ordering alcoholic beverages to the room was also not exactly what I expected from a Buddhist temple stay in Japan. Of course, you don’t have to turn on the TV or order a craft beer, but if those options weren’t available, it would have felt a more authentic experience to me.
“not quite what you would expect from a 1000- year-old Buddhist temple…”
“...or is it just me being picky?”
MONKS UNDER PREASSURE
The monks always seemed in a hurry. Although there were many of them working in the temple, they were probably still not enough for the number of guests. Honestly speaking, I expected lots of peace of mind from the Buddhist monks. However, as they were under a lot of time pressure, they seemed rather stressed than peaceful. Again, it wasn’t the 100% atmosphere I would expect in a Buddhist temple. Maybe it was just a particularly busy weekend at the temple. Or at least I hope it was.
Monks have busy schedules... The same monk who led the spiritual Fire Ritual performed lots of mundane tasks. He helped us book the cemetery tour and cleaned the rooms.
CUSTOMER SERVICE BELOW EXPECATIONS
When I asked in what order I should eat the small dishes served for dinner, the monk replied in a rush: “as you like.” While eating, I noticed a paper note that the same monk brought along with the dinner. It suggested starting with the clear soup and eating the hot pot when it boiled… A small thing, but being used to excellent customer service in Japan, I would have expected a better service from a place in this price range.
The Japanese are usually very proud of their local products, cuisine, and origin. In the budget guesthouses we often stay in when travelling in Japan, the staff usually explains everything about the accommodation and nearby restaurants in detail. But this is the difference between a small guesthouse run with passion and a large hotel established for profit. Unfortunately, the Ekoin Temple seems more like the latter.
What other say about the temple stay in Koyasan?
Reading other people’s online reviews, they are mostly very happy with their stay. So it’s probably just me being a bit picky. They only complained about two things, if they really had to. Firstly, the thin walls of the temple can make it a bit difficult to sleep due to sounds from other rooms. Secondly, the opening hours of the public bath (16:00-22:00 and 06:00-09:00) are inconvenient.
Honestly, I don’t think it’s fair. All traditional Japanese old houses turned into guest houses have the same characteristics/rules. Just don’t stay in a traditional Japanese house or in a 1,200-year-old temple, if you’re looking for ultimate comfort. You come to stay in a temple in Koyasan for a unique experience and that’s what you get.
Is temple stay in Koyasan worth it?
If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path experience, it definitely won’t be Koyasan, But if you’re looking for a unique experience that gives you an insight into Japanese Buddhism and traditions, then I highly recommend it!
Although staying at the temple is not cheap – we paid JPY 40,000 for a night for two – it’s worth it. Dinner and breakfast, which are included, are prepared with quality ingredients and beautifully presented. This type of dining, which is more like art, is never cheap in Japan.
In addition, the morning service with chanting and the fire ritual (also included in the price) are very unique experiences that you will probably not experience anywhere else. Besides, the location of Eko-in Temple is very convenient. If you feel like taking an evening walk through the famous cemetery, it’s very easy. Finally, you can also experience traditional Japan. Have a soak in the temple’s public bath and enjoy your breakfast on a tatami mat wearing a yukata in your room.
Ekoin Temple official website [CLICK HERE]
If you liked this article, please feel free to leave a comment. I will be happy to answer your questions! 🙂
